
SOUND: The bells of St. Martin’s Church, Harlem
Parishioners in Sunday hats trickled from the doors of St. Martin’s Episcopal Church onto the sidewalk of 122nd Street and Malcolm X Boulevard. As throbbing

MULTISENSORY EXPERIENCE: The Terrace of Crispness
I set out for the Terrace of Crispness on an August afternoon. Traffic slunk along the BQE. A haze hung over the Manhattan skyline. My

TOUCH: Platza treatment at the Russian and Turkish Baths
“You are very strong,” Victor the platza man told me moments after I’d emerged from the Radiant Heat Room at the Russian and Turkish Baths,

SOUND: Mike Pallotta’s cutlery-grinding truck
One of the most wonderful things about living in New York is stumbling upon a living anachronism: a barbershop pole, a drugstore fountain, a shoe-polish

TASTE: Glaser’s Bake Shop’s Black-and-White Cookie
I was skeptical of the black-and-white cookie. There was something obscene about their nearly half-foot diameter, the chocolate and vanilla icing: it was like having

SIGHT: Horseshoe crabs spawning, Brooklyn
A few Sundays ago I headed out to Dead Horse Bay, in Marine Park, Brooklyn, to see the annual horseshoe crab spawning. The crabs’ mating

MULTISENSORY EXPERIENCE: The YeloNap
What could be more New York than a PowerNap—and a trademarked one at that? Nestled in the heart of Midtown, just west of Columbus Circle,

SIGHT: Birdhouse fence, Flatbush
A few blocks past the tabernacle churches, hair-braiding salons, and Laundromats of Church Avenue lies a quiet residential neighborhood. Dogs bark. Children play catch in

TASTE: Warm arroz con leche on a cold winter night, Sunset Park
If, on a snowy evening, you find yourself in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, stop by the card table set up on outside Taqueria La Mixteca, across